A Day in the Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands makes you feel like you’ve arrived in a tropical paradise, . With its sheltered water, island-dotted horizons, and small historic towns seamlessly connected by ferry, and the reason why they call it the winterless north.

I spent a day on the water, a wander around one of its oldest towns and a memorable detour on the way home. This guide maps out my experience on the Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise from Paihia, exploring the historic buildings and op shops of Russell and stopping to see the famous Hundertwasser toilets and vintage train in Kawakawa.

A day in the Bay of Islands

The Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise

I booked the Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise through Fullers GreatSights, departing from Paihia, and set aside most of the day for the adventure. The cruise runs at approximately four to four and a half hours, which sounds like a lot until you are actually out on the water and realise the time has disappeared entirely.

The weather was absolutely fantastic, the kind of clear blue Bay of Islands day that makes everything look like a postcard. The commentary throughout the journey was excellent too, full of local history and cultural knowledge that gave the islands we were passing genuine context rather than just serving as pretty scenery.

Dolphins were spotted during the cruise, though I wasn’t among the lucky ones who got a close look. These experiences are always at the mercy of the local wildlife, which though disappointing, it is what it is.

As for the Hole in the Rock itself, the famous sea cave carved through Piercy Island (Motukōkako) at the tip of the Cape Brett Peninsula, conditions on the day meant the swell was too rough to navigate directly through. Instead, the captain brilliantly backed the boat in from the opposite side. It was a clever way to still experience the scale of the cave even when the sea has other ideas. It is worth knowing before you book that this maneuver is always weather and swell dependent, so manage your expectations and just enjoy whatever the day offers. On a day as beautiful as mine, it was hard to feel short-changed.

 

Quick Tips for the Hole in the Rock Dolphin Cruise

• Booking Details: Secure tickets ahead of time through Fullers GreatSights, departing directly from the Paihia wharf.
• Time Allocation: Allow approximately four hours plus for the full return cruise.
• Wildlife Expectations: Dolphin sightings are common but never guaranteed, that’s the beauty of wild animals.
• Cave Navigation: Going all the way through the Hole in the Rock depends entirely on sea conditions and swell size on the day.
• What to Wear: Dress in layers. It can get surprisingly chilly out on the open water, even on a warm summer day.

 

Otehei Bay

The cruise includes an island lunch stop at Otehei Bay on Urupukapuka Island, the largest island in the Bay of Islands cluster, where everyone goes ashore for about an hour. It is a lovely, sheltered spot and a welcome chance to stretch your legs after the long trip out to Cape Brett. I grabbed a coffee and had a peaceful wander around, taking in the pristine bay and the island surroundings. There is a fully licensed café on the island for those wanting a proper lunch or a cold drink. It is a relaxed, unhurried stop and a genuinely beautiful highlight of the day.

 

 

Related: The Ultimate Far North Road Trip: Exploring Kerikeri to Mangonui

 

Russell

Rather than heading straight back to Paihia with the cruise, I stepped off at Russell instead. One of the best advantages of the Fullers route is that it allows a stopover here, making it incredibly easy to explore the town before catching a later passenger ferry back across the harbor.

Russell is one of New Zealand’s oldest European settlements, a small and charming coastal town. I had a quick browse at St John’s, the local op shop, though I don’t think anything quite made it home with me this time. I also wandered past Christ Church, which is famously the oldest surviving church in the country, walked past the Duke of Marlborough Hotel which is the oldest pub in New Zealand and spent a bit of time just taking photos of the spectacular bay view.

If you have time you could visit Flagstaff Hill which gives fantastic views over the Bay of Islands. The historic flagpole has an interesting history including being cut down four times and igniting the Northern War.

 

 

 

Quick Tips for Visiting Russell

• Ferry Logistics: Step off the Fullers cruise at Russell and simply catch a later passenger ferry back to Paihia. The ferry ride is quick, inexpensive, and runs regularly throughout the day.
• Historic Sites: Christ Church is one of the oldest churches in New Zealand and still bears bullet holes from the Northern War, well worth a respectful look.
• Op Shopping: The local St John’s op shop is a small but worthwhile browse for secondhand treasures.

 

Paihia Bay of Islands

Back on the mainland in Paihia, I made one more quick stop before calling the day done: the Focus Paihia op shop. It’s often the small one off places that have some unknown treasure, though that wasn’t the case this time. If you are passing through town and love a treasure hunt it is well worth a look.

 

Kawakawa

On the drive south from the Bay of Islands, the small town of Kawakawa makes for an easy and very worthwhile stop. Most people know it for one iconic thing: the Hundertwasser toilets. These public facilities were designed by the famous Austrian artist and environmentalist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, who spent the final years of his life living just outside Kawakawa. I had visited them once before, but that didn’t make them any less delightful to walk through again, colourful, organic, and genuinely unlike any public toilet you will ever encounter in the world.

 

What was brand new to me on this visit was the Hundertwasser Park center right alongside the facilities. Downstairs, there are beautiful displays about the artist’s deep connection with Kawakawa and the community story behind building the toilets, a surprisingly moving account of how a world-renowned artist came to make this small New Zealand town his true home. Upstairs, the gallery features a stunning selection of his framed colorful posters. It is well worth taking your time to explore both floors.

 

Hundertwasser Memorial Park

 

And then, while I was standing on the main street, the train came through. Not past the town, but right through it, the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway runs directly down the middle of the main street. I luckily managed to catch it on video, and if I had, had more time I might have taken a trip though you need to allow two hours.

I also managed to squeeze in a browse at two more local op shops, the Kawakawa Hospice Shop and the local St John’s, before heading further south. Kawakawa is a spot that is easy to underestimate but genuinely worth a dedicated stop.

Quick Tips for Kawakawa

• The Hundertwasser Toilets: These world-famous public facilities are entirely free to visit and open daily.
• Hundertwasser Park: Located right next door, featuring historical displays downstairs and an art gallery upstairs.
• The Vintage Train:  For tickets and information see the website.
• Op Shops: There are two great charity shops in town: the Kawakawa Hospice Shop and the St John’s store.
• Perfect Transit Stop: It serves as an excellent, budget-friendly rest stop when driving between the Bay of Islands and Whangārei.

 

Op shops Bay of Islands

These are the op shops I visited on this day (there are more in Kerikeri), to find them easily I have added them to a map.

• Kawakawa Hospice Shop
• Hato Hone St John Kawakawa
• Hato Hone St John Russell
• Focus Paihia Op Shop

 

Video Highlights of the Bay of Islands

includes Kerikeri

 

 

Final Thoughts on The Bay of Islands

There is so much to see and do in the Northland region of New Zealand. After making Kerikeri my base and exploring the town, I was glad to spend some time exploring a bit further afield. If you have time to take a trip on one of the Fullers boats or tours I would highly recommend it.

From a boat tour to the hole in the rock, a stop at a few op shops (secondhand stores), a visit to Kawakawa to see those famous toilets it was a lovely day out.

This trip started from Cape Reinga and a visit to the lighthouse then a road trip to Kerikeri. There so much to explore you really need to allow lots of time. I certainly didnt manage to see everything so would love some suggestions for my next visit.

Happy traveling, Jenny – follow me on Insta or Youtube

(video/images taken at time of visit may not be current)