The Best of Frankfurt: Things to Do and More

I arrived in Frankfurt interested to see what the city had to offer beyond its reputation as a financial hub. All glass towers and suits, or so I assumed. But the best of Frankfurt included some very surprising things  From Ancient Roman foundations, a medieval square, a neighbourhood rebuilt almost from scratch, a photography exhibition and a river that pulls everything together. Not bad for a short stay.

The Best of Frankfurt

Fotografie Forum Frankfurt

I’d spotted the Fotografie Forum Frankfurt and was drawn in by what was showing at the time: two exhibitions running simultaneously, both worth the visit.

The first was PASSIONATELY, a members show celebrating the FFF’s 40th anniversary. In an open call process, members were invited to submit work for a juried exhibition, and the result was over 200 photographs covering everything from portraiture and street photography to abstract work, fashion and architecture.

Running alongside it was MARTIN PARR. EARLY WORKS, which was a real treat and a great introduction to his work. Fifty-eight rarely seen black and white photographs taken by the British Magnum photographer between 1970 and 1985, shown in Germany for the first time. Bird clubs in Surrey, pilgrimages in Ireland, holiday resorts, village banquets and the ever-present English weather.
The FFF itself is a small but well-considered space right in the centre of Frankfurt and one of the leading photography institutions in Europe. If you have any interest in photography at all, check what is on when you visit.

Quick Tips: Fotografie Forum Frankfurt

• Address: Braubachstraße 30-32, Frankfurt am Main
• What I saw: PASSIONATELY (FFF Members Show) and Martin Parr. Early Works
• Website: fffrankfurt.com to check current exhibitions
• Good to know: Small space but well used, past exhibition books available in the shop
• Time to allow: 1 to 1.5 hours

 

Römerberg

The Römerberg is the historic heart of Frankfurt, a cobbled square surrounded by the stepped-gable façades that have become the postcard image of the city. It is one of those places that immediately gives you a sense of what Frankfurt might have looked like before the Second World War, though much of what you see today is a careful reconstruction. The originals were largely destroyed by bombing in 1944.

At the western edge of the square is the Römer, Frankfurt’s city hall, a complex of houses that has served as the town hall since 1405. While you’re there, look up at the tower known as the Langer Franz. Named after the tall former mayor Franz Adickes, who had his office up there during his term from 1891 to 1912, it was once the highest secular building in Frankfurt at 70 metres. In front of Romer is a fountain called the Fountain of Justice  honouring Justitia, the female champion of justice brandishing sword and scales.

Also on or near the square you’ll find the Frankfurt Cathedral (Dom), the Alte Nikolaikirche which sits right on the Römerberg itself, and the Paulskirche, known as the birthplace of German democracy. Now used as exhibition, memorial and meeting pace You could spend a while just getting your bearings around this part of the city.

 

You may also notice Ostzeile, colourful half timber buildings. These are a reconstruction of 6 historic buildings that were destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt between 1982 and 1984.

And if you happen to be there when a market is running, keep an eye out. I came across a stall by Frankfurt jewellery maker Elke Eisinger, whose work is made from etched and patinated brass. I bought a pair of earrings and was very happy with them. Her work has a real handmade, artistic quality to it. You can find her at elke-eisinger.de.

 

Quick Tips: Römerberg

• Getting there: Easy walking distance from the old town centre and the river
• What to look for: The Römer city hall, the Langer Franz tower currently being restored, Alte Nikolaikirche, the Dom and the Paulskirche nearby
• Historical note: Much of the square is a careful post-war reconstruction
• Markets: Check what is on when you visit, there can be artisan and seasonal markets in the square
• Time to allow: Allow a good hour or more to wander this area properly

 

 

The New Old Town

Right next to the Römerberg is something that genuinely impressed me. The Dom-Römer Quarter, known as the New Old Town, is a neighbourhood rebuilt and reopened in 2018 on ground that had been lost to post-war redevelopment. What had become a dull administrative block was removed and in its place around 35 buildings were reconstructed or newly built in the spirit of the historic streetscape that once stood there.

Narrow lanes, varied façades, independent cafés and shops. Some buildings are precise reconstructions based on historical records, others are contemporary interpretations sitting within the old street pattern.

 

Quick Tips: New Old Town (Dom-Römer Quarter)

• Where: Between Römerberg and the cathedral
• Good for: A wander, with cafés and small independent shops to discover
• Historical note: Rebuilt in 2018 on the original medieval street footprint
• Time to allow: 30 to 45 minutes

 

The Kaiserpfalz Franconofurd

Within new old town is a genuinely unexpected find: the ruins of the Kaiserpfalz Franconofurd, the remains of a Carolingian imperial palace. Franconofurd, as it happens, is the original Latin name Frankfurt itself comes from, so there is something fitting about standing on those foundations right in the heart of the city.  Worth pausing at even if you just stop for a few minutes.

Quick Tips: Kaiserpfalz Franconofurd

• Admission: Free
• Opening hours: Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 6pm
• Guided tours: Every second Saturday of the month at 3pm, meeting at the Goldene Waage entrance, approximately 45 minutes (small participation fee applies)
• Group tours: Available by appointment at fuehrungen.archaeologie@stadt-frankfurt.de
• Good to know: Information panels are in both German and English. The attached exhibition room in Bendergasse was temporarily closed for renovation at time of writing, so worth checking before visiting
• Website: archaeologisches-museum-frankfurt.de

 

Along the River Main

The River Main dissects Frankfurt and makes for many enjoyable activities, even if it’s just taking a walk along its banks.

The Boat Trip

I took a boat trip with Primus-Linie, departing from the Eiserner Steg. I did the 100-minute option, which combines both 50-minute routes on the same boat, heading out in both directions along the river. It is a really lovely way to see the city from a completely different angle.

From the water you get a sense of the contrast between Frankfurt’s history and its modern financial skyline, the Commerzbank tower and the cluster of glass buildings on one side, the reconstructed old town rooflines on the other.

The European Central Bank building is hard to miss as you pass. Looking back toward the Römerberg from the water gives you a different perspective. One of the places on the route is Gerbermühle. It was Goethe’s favourite retreat in Frankfurt, and it was here that his relationship and literary collaboration with Marianne von Willemer flourished. She co-wrote poems with him that were published as part of his acclaimed West-Eastern Divan collection, but her contribution went unacknowledged during her lifetime.

 

Quick Tips: Primus-Linie Boat Trips

• Departure point: Eiserner Steg
• Options: 50-minute routes in either direction, or the 100-minute trip combining both
• Season: Mid-March to early October
• Website: primus-linie.de
• Time to allow: 100 minutes for the full trip, worth it

 

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The Best of Frankfurt – Building & Bridges

Eiserner Steg

The Eiserner Steg is a pedestrian iron bridge over the Main that has become one of those places everyone finds their way to. If you have seen the Frankfurt waterfront in any photo, this bridge has probably been in the frame. Walk across it for the views back toward the Römerberg and along the river in both directions.

Portikus

On the Sachsenhausen side of the river I spotted the Portikus, a contemporary art space built on the foundations of an old bridge pier. It was closed when I visited, which was a slight disappointment, but it is worth looking for. Even from the outside it is an unusual thing to come across, a small glass structure sitting on old stone foundations out in the river. Check portikus.de for opening times before visiting as it closes between exhibitions.

 

 

Le Petit Café Ost

Le Petit Café Ost was near our accommodation rather than in the centre of the city, but it is worth a mention. What drew me in was the retro decor, very much my kind of place. A good spot for coffee and slowing down at the end of a day after lots of walking.

 

The Best of Frankfurt Video Highlights

Final Thoughts on the Best of Frankfurt

Frankfurt was worth spending the time exploring. I arrived expecting a city full of banking towers however I left with cobblestones, ruins and a photography exhibition still in my head. The old town and the riverside are genuinely worth your time, and the New Old Town in particular is one of those places that gives you a lot to explore in a very short walk.

I didn’t see everything. The Städel museum on the south bank kept catching my eye from the boat and is firmly on the list for next time, along with a few other corners the city hinted at but time didn’t allow.

If Germany is on your list, don’t write Frankfurt off as just a stopover. Give it a day or two and wander.