Epic Cape Reinga to Kerikeri Road Trip

I am not a morning person. Anyone who knows me will confirm this without hesitation. Sometimes the reason for an early start is worth every groggy moment. Dropping my husband off at Cape Reinga for the beginning of the Tour of Aotearoa – a 3,000km cycling journey the full length of New Zealand – was absolutely one of those times.

While he was about to embark on days of gruelling pedalling, I had my own plans. A slower, drive south, stopping wherever caught my eye: finding the amazing gems on my epic road trip.

Cape Reinga Lighthouse

Cape Reinga holds a significance that goes well beyond being the top of New Zealand. In Maori tradition, Te Rerenga Wairua – the leaping-off place of spirits. Its where the souls of the departed begin their journey to the ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.

The lighthouse itself sits at the end of a path down from the carpark, perched on a headland with the Tasman Sea meeting the Pacific Ocean below. On a clear day it is genuinely breathtaking. If you happen to be there when the sun rises it’s even more spectacular.

The Tour of Aotearoa uses Cape Reinga as its unofficial start, and a good number of riders and their supporters had made the journey up for the brevet. Everyone had to have their photo taken at the lighthouse and there was an excitement in the air that was hard not to get caught up in.

From the viewing area you can look across to Kapa Wairua, Spirits Bay, the wide sweep of beach sitting quietly below the headland. You may notice a lone tree on the outcrop, this is a pohutukawa tree known as Te Aroha. This is where the spirits of the departed are said to move down the tree, to the roots and into the sea.

Then the riders headed off south, and suddenly it was quiet. Just me, a few other visitors, and the Far North stretching out ahead. That was the moment the day really began.

Quick Tips – Cape Reinga Lighthouse

Allow time: To walk down to the lighthouse and back – it’s a short but worthwhile path
The best views: Of the meeting of the Tasman and Pacific are from the lighthouse headland
Kapa Wairua: Look across to Kapa Wairua (Spirits Bay) from the viewing area
Facilities: Car Park includes toilets

Beaches near Cape Reinga

Tapotupotu Beach

Tapotupotu Beach was the first gem on my road trip. It is a short drive from the lighthouse and when you turn of the main road it’s a winding descent down a gravel road.

The beach itself is sheltered and beautiful, a slice of wild Far North coastline that feels genuinely remote. When I arrived there were people camping, a mix of holidaymakers and what I suspected were Tour of Aotearoa support crew keeping an eye on the start of things.

I had a walk along the beach which at that time of the morning I was the only one there. I could have driven down Ninety mile Beach after leaving the lighthouse at Cape Reinga as that’s the route the cyclists took however I preferred to drive on the road. Though I did drive to the beach from Houhora to see if I could see anyone.

Quick Tips – Tapotupotu Beach

Gravel road: Take care and check conditions before you go
Camping: Doc campsite located at the beach, bookings required
Good to Know: Good for swimming and kayaking

 

Rarawa Beach

Another gem is Rarawa Beach, which is known for its white silica sand, which is unlike almost anywhere else in New Zealand. On the right day, in the right light, it apparently glows. The day I visited was overcast and a little breezy, so I’ll admit I didn’t quite get the full effect, but even in grey light, it was a worthwhile stop.

Another gravel road to get there, though this one is flat and easy. Like Tapotupotu, there’s a DOC campsite here, and the whole area has that unhurried Far North feeling that I was very happily settling into.

Quick Tips – Rarawa Beach

Access: Gravel road access, but flat and easy going
Camping: DOC campsite on site
Best time to visit: on a sunny day to appreciate the white silica sand

Awanui Antique Shop

Awanui sits at the gateway to the Far North, and it was there I spotted an antique shop I couldn’t drive past. I’m constitutionally unable to resist these places, and this one did not disappoint – the kind of shop where everything is a little bit jumbled and a little bit wonderful. Tools, genuine antiques, retro furniture, the odd curiosity sitting between things that don’t quite belong together. I had a good browse, which is sometimes enough. – see video below

Doubtless Bay

an inlet on the East Coast

Coopers Beach

By the time I reached Coopers Beach, it was clear why this stretch of the Doubtless Bay coast is so popular. Wide, sheltered, the kind of beach people actually swim at. Which is exactly what I did. My one and only swim of the summer, as it turned out.

Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve

A short drive from Coopers beach, is Rangikapiti Pa – a historic reserve I hadn’t planned to stop at. The walk up to the pa site is short and not particularly strenuous, but the views from the top are quite spectacular looking out over Doubtless Bay and Mangonui Harbour.

The pa provided strong defences with its terraces and defensive ditch characteristic of fortified Maori sites, and forms part of the Taumarumaru Reserve, which includes other pa sites that can be visited nearby.

 

Quick Tips – Rangikapiti Pa Historic Reserve

Walk details: Short walk to the top, not flat
Views:  Excellent view over Doubtless Bay and surrounding coastline
Information: Information board at the site with the history of the pa and the area
Cost: Free to visit, parking available

Video Highlights From the Trip

 

Final Thoughts on Cape Reinga to Kerikeri Road Trip

Eight hours after leaving Cape Reinga, I finally pulled into the Airbnb at Waipapa, just on the outskirts of Kerikeri. Eight hours of driving, beaches, history, one unexpected swim, and some antique browsing. I sat down and didn’t move for a while, which felt completely earned.

Kerikeri would be my base for the next few days – and as I would discover, there was plenty worth exploring from there.

Of course I managed to do some opshopping and found some waterfalls to visit, but that’s not all. Keep an eye out for the next blog. If there is anything that I missed that you enjoyed in the area let me know.

Happy traveling, Jenny – follow me on Insta or Youtube

(video/images taken at time of visit may not be current)