Karlsruhe

Apparently Karlsruhe is an unlikely tourist designation however you can find things to see and do in most places and Karlsruhe is no exception. Not really knowing much about Karlsruhe before I visited I was pleasantly surprised by the things I managed to see. Located in the southwest of Germany near the French border and bank of the River Rhine Karlsruhe is Germany’s Legal Centre. Karlsruhe has the nickname “fan city” as the city was planned with the palace tower (Schloss) at the center with 32 streets radiating out like the ribs of a folding fan.

One thing that surprised me when visiting in autumn, was the well kept gardens with lots of wild flowers. We were in the city centre though so not sure if its a thing that happens throughout the city.

 

Things to See

ZKM|Center for Art and Media

If you like art and especially places that are a little different to the norm then ZKM is a place for you. Formally a munitions factory in World War 1 it is now a centre for Art and Media “The mission of the ZKM is to explore the creative possibilities of connecting the traditional arts and media technologies to achieve innovative results. The goal is to enrich the arts, not to amputate them by technical means. This is why traditional art and media art must compete with one another. The ZKM is a place which supports both – each for itself and together. The Bauhaus, founded in Weimar in 1919, can be regarded as its model.” – Heinrich Klotz .

As you approach the ZKM building, a prominent feature is the sculpture “The Morning Line” by artist Matthew Ritchie. Behind the sculpture is the Blue Cube, giving a visual landmark for the center and melding the old with the new. It is acoustically optimized recording studio. There are also a number of sculptures nearby one by Werner Pokorny titled “Neun Pfeiler Aufrecht“ (Nine Pillars Upright) and “Taiwan Ruyi”  Kang Mu-xiang made from discarded elevator cables

 

ZKM houses the Media Museum and the Museum of Contemporary Art. There were a number of exhibits when I visited that are now finished,  including Black Flags and (A) I Tell you, You Tell Me. (see videos below)

Black Flags

The Black Flags exhibition brought together works by artists William Forsythe, Santiago Sierra and Edith Dekyndt exploring symbolism of the black flag in multiple ways — from robotic choreography and anarchist protest imagery to a video of a flag made of hair — encouraging visitors to rethink how powerful symbols reflect social, political and cultural divides in today’s world. ZKM

(A) I Tell you, You Tell Me.

Presented as “Three Encounters for Humans/Machines,” this exhibit focused on our relationship with artificial intelligence and algorithmic systems, inviting visitors to interact with and reflect on themes of communication, prejudice, and co-existence between humans and machines through works by Robotlab, Anne Duk Hee Jordan and others. ZKM

There was a variety of other artworks available to explore some from the Zkm Collection Works

1. Lynn Hershman Leeson, Reach 1986
2. Georg Baselitz, Blonden anderer Stelle 1992
3. Werner Büttner, Der romantische Imperativ 2007
4. Martin Kippenberger, Deutscher Eierknaller 1996
5. Anne Duk Hee Jordan, The End is Where We Start From 2024 (this was part of the Exhibition)

 

Karlsruhe Palace, Park and Light show

The Karlsruhe Palace is no longer used as a palace but houses the Badisches Landesmuseum (Baden State Museum) which is currently closed for Renovations. It is surrounded by an extensive garden and park and in summer the Palace becomes the Schlosslichtspiele Karlsruhe (Palace Light Show). – see below for a brief video overview

 

As I love to explore and walk I managed to spend a bit of time wandering through the park. There are a number of sculptures, monuments, fountains and a lake. If you have kids there is also a mini railway The Schlossgartenbahn also known as “Bähnle” (little train). One hidden gem is the blue ceramic tiles the “blue beam” which mark a former axis leading from a palace garden wall to the Majolica workshops.

 

It was interesting to see the light show which is a 3D video mapping projections on the facade of the palace. This takes place every year and is part of the “Media Art is Here” event. Karlsruhe is a UNESCO City of Media Arts and aims to bring digital art to public spaces. The show is free and runs for up to two hours each night. It is still a major event each year. (video below)

 

Genesis – Art in the Karlsruhe Light Rail Tunnel

If you weren’t aware, Karlsruhe has a free art gallery in the light rail tunnel stations. 14 works of art created by Markus Lupertz are displayed at various stops. Open 365 days of the year its Germany’s largest continuous ceramic artwork display with a uniform theme – Genesis.

You can view the artworks on your own or take a tour

 

 

Karlsruhe Marktplatz

The marktplatz is a central historic market square and it is the core of the fan shaped central city. Here you can find the Town Hall, the City Church, the Pyramid – mausoleum of Charles III William, Margrave of Baden Durlach the city’s founder.

A number of markets and events are held each year at the market square.

After attending the light show we walked back to our accommodation through the marktplatz and enjoyed the lit up square. Projected on the columns of the church was the art installation “Sleeping Trees” Alex Besta part of the UNESCO Creative City of Media Arts Karlsruhe

 

 

 

Turmbergbahn

Getting to the Turmbergbahn meant taking a train to the Durlach district. However I was pleased to have made the effort as the Turmbergahan closed in late 2024 for modernisation of the cable car and track. It was a funicular railroad that connected the Durlach district with the Turmberg, a local hill. It was one of the oldest funicular railroads in Germany.

At the top of the Turmberg are some castle ruins. Normally you would be able to climb these and get a great view over the area. However it was closed for renovations when I visited. I still managed to get some good views from where the Turmbergbahn stops.

 

 

 

 

Other Gems

Fountains

I inadvertently stumbled across a number of fountains in Karlsruhe, listed below. However once home I discovered even more but I’ll leave that up to you to find.

There is a fountain located in Friedrichsplatz, a public square named in honor of Grand Duke Karl Friedrich. This is situated in front of the State Museum of Natural History and Library. The square hosts a number of markets during the year and is also located near Ettlinger Tor the largest shopping centre.

The Nymphengarten starts at the rear of the State Museum of Natural History. It’s a small green space that originally was in the style of an English Garden. Within the garden is the Nymph Fountain created by Heinrich Weltring and how the garden got its name

Stephanienbrunnen is a fountain on Stephanplatz. It features a bronze nymph figure on a large plinth. All surrounded by columns at the top of which are face carvings that serve as water spouts.

At the palace there are also a number of fountains. The base of the statue of Karl-Friedrich-Denkmal (Monument to Grand Duke Karl Friedrich) is surrounded by a fountain. The Hirschbrunnen  – Deer Fountain is located in the Pheasant Garden (Fasanengarten) but there are many others which I didn’t manage to photograph.

• Seahorse Fountain (Seepferd-Brunnen)
• Naid Fountain (Westlicher Najaden-Brunnen)
• Water Steles Fountain (Wasserstelen-Brunnen) and more

 

You will also find a couple of water features in the marketplace,  the Ludwigsbrunnen – Grand Duke Ludwig Fountain which is located between the town hall and the church. You can also get drinking water here. A water feature is also located in front of the Pyramid where kids enjoy playing.

 

Sonnenfächer tiles on Waldstraße

Karlsruhe Sun Fan Project is easy to miss — a subtle line of yellow Majolika tiles running through Waldstraße, marking the city’s fan-shaped design. Though I think there was plans for more it seems that this was the only one.

 

 

Various Video Highlights

 

 

Karlsruhe Final Word

Karlsruhe exceeded my expectations. I’d love to go for another visit because I know there is a lot more to see. I’ve included a link to a map so you can find these place if you are heading to Karlsruhe.

If you have visited what were your highlights? What do you think is worth visiting? Happy travels.