The Ultimate Far North Road Trip: Exploring Kerikeri to Mangonui

After an eight-hour road trip filled with beaches, lighthouses, and antique hunting, which I covered in my Epic Cape Reinga to Kerikeri guide, arriving in Kerikeri felt like finding a sanctuary. With its lush citrus orchards and thriving creative community, this beautiful Northland town served as the perfect base camp to unpack, unwind, and fan out to explore the region at my own pace.

While I’ve already covered Kerikeri’s secondhand shops and its five local waterfalls, this guide covers the ultimate day-trip itinerary heading up the coast. From diving into the weekend stalls at The Old Packhouse Market and walking the heritage grounds of the Stone Store to soaking in the ocean views at Matauri and watching the sea views in Mangonui, here is everything you need to see on the road north.

The Old Packhouse Market

Every Saturday from 8:00 AM to 1:30 PM, the Old Packhouse Market transforms into a bustling growers and artisans market. It was a spectacular start to my Saturday morning, packed with vibrant stalls and local character, make sure to allow plenty of time to take it all in.

I came away with a new necklace, because apparently I cannot pass a market stall of handmade jewelry without browsing, and left happily with a pinwheel pastry and a fresh coffee in hand.

 

Quick Tips for the Old Packhouse Market

• Operating Hours: Open every Saturday from 8:00 AM to 1:30 PM.
• What’s on Offer: A vibrant mix of local growers and artisans. It is a fantastic spot for fresh Northland produce, artisan baking, and unique handmade crafts.
• Event Details: Check the official website for special seasonal events and artisan market schedules.

 

The Stone Store & Honey House Cafe

The Stone Store is part of the Kerikeri Mission Station, which also includes Kemp House. As the oldest intact stone building in New Zealand, it holds deep personal memories for me that go far beyond its history. My husband and I visited here on our honeymoon back when the main road still ran right past the store and over the Wairoa River. Returning years later with the road now diverted was a quiet reminder of how much changes, even in places that feel completely timeless.

I love the texture of the stone itself, weathered, solid, and a reminder of how things use to be done that have stood the test of time. I paid the entry fee to go upstairs to the museum, where I spent time exploring both upper floors and learning about the area’s early mission history. There is a retail shop on the ground floor, so of course, I didn’t leave empty-handed. I picked up a historical map, a couple of classic “Longest Drink in Town” milk-bar tumblers, and a tea towel that has since found a second life as a cushion cover on my couch. Not the most predictable souvenir, but easily the most used.

Right next door sits the Honey House Café, which made for a lovely riverside lunch stop. I went with another pinwheel pastry (because apparently one pastry a day was the official theme of this trip) and a chia pudding. The setting completely made the experience; I sat out on the verandah at tables made from old beehive boxes – a perfect nod to the café’s name and the region’s rich history of honey production.

The café utilizes fresh produce grown directly on-site in the mission garden and orchard. While the heritage gardens are entirely free to access, you can also purchase a small booklet at the shop for a comprehensive self-guided walking tour.

Quick Tips for the Stone Store & Honey House Café

• Stone Store Hours: Open daily. November to April: 10:00 AM – 5:00 PM | May to October: 10:00 AM – 4:00 PM.
• Honey House Café Hours: Open Tuesday through Sunday from 9:00 AM to 3:00 PM.
• Physical Address: 218 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri.
• More Information: Visit the official Kerikeri Mission Station website for tour bookings and holiday closures.

 

Matauri Bay & The Rainbow Warrior Memorial

A scenic drive out to Matauri Bay took me along a route that turned steep and winding for the final coastal stretch, but the sweeping bay views made the drive entirely worthwhile. It features a beautiful, sweeping white-sand beach alongside an unexpected geological detail: just before the walking path climbs up to the headland, the beach at Putataua Bay on the opposite side transitions entirely into dramatic, smooth stones.

High up on the headland sits the striking memorial to the the iconic Greenpeace vessel bombed by French intelligence agents in Auckland Harbour in 1985 while preparing to protest nuclear testing in the Pacific. I vividly remember seeing the event on the news while growing up, though I’ll admit I didn’t fully comprehend all the historical details until I stood there reading the boards at the bottom of the hill.

The memorial itself is magnificent in its simplicity, a coastal archway built from local river stones with the ship’s actual propeller mounted at its center, framing the sky and the Cavalli Islands beyond. It serves as a quiet but incredibly powerful reminder that our history, even the more recent and uncomfortable chapters of it, deserves to be remembered properly.

Quick Tips for Matauri Bay & The Memorial

• Road Conditions: The final approach road down to the bay is steep, narrow, and winding. Drive carefully and watch for oncoming traffic.
• Beach Access: The main bay offers a pristine white-sand beach. As you approach the walking track to the memorial, the beach on the western side shifts to smooth, heavy stones.
• The Walking Track: The track up to the monument is relatively short but consistently uphill. Informational history boards are located at the very beginning of the trail.

Mangonui

Mangonui is one of those legendary, small Far North coastal towns that I had heard so much about beforehand that I simply needed to visit.

One of my stops was the famous Mangonui Fish Shop, which sits directly over the water on stilts. I ordered fresh fish and calamari rings. There is something about eating freshly caught seafood while looking straight out over the peaceful harbour that makes it taste twice as good. Because I arrived for a quieter, late-afternoon visit, I luckily didn’t have to contend with the large crowds the shop is known to draw during peak lunch hours.

Just a short stroll along the waterfront is the Mangonui Four Square. It is widely considered one of the most photographed grocery stores in New Zealand because it is uniquely built out over the water on wooden stilts. It is a wonderfully strange and charming sight to see a regular neighborhood grocery store positioned like it’s an active part of the harbour itself.

 

I also called into the Mangonui Gallery, which is housed inside the town’s historic old courthouse building. It had an excellent array of mixed-media art on display. I didn’t purchase anything this time, but thoroughly enjoyed browsing the exhibits and taking photos of a few pieces that caught my eye. The gallery forms part of a local heritage trail encompassing 22 historic points of interest, you can find the trail map mounted on the footpath or on the Doubtless Bay Website

And because it was summer, and because a classic Kiwi summer practically requires it, I finished my coastal stroll with a classic ice cream cone from the Village Creamery. I can’t quite remember the exact flavors I chose, but it was absolutely worth it on a warm, sunny afternoon.

Quick Tips for Visiting Mangonui

• Mangonui Fish Shop: World-famous for over-water dining. It gets incredibly busy at peak weekend times, so consider visiting mid-afternoon to skip the queues.
• Waterfront Four Square: A must-see architectural landmark built on stilts over the harbor.
• Mangonui Art Gallery: Located in the historic old courthouse. It is a fantastic free stop for art lovers and marks the start of the 22-site local heritage trail.
• Ice Cream Treats: Stop by the Village Creamery for a traditional Kiwi ice cream scoop to enjoy while walking along the historic waterfront.

 

More to See Around Kerikeri

If you are basing your holiday in Kerikeri, there is plenty of extra exploring worth your time. I have already covered the area’s five beautiful waterfalls in my guide to waterfalls in Kerikeri and compiled a comprehensive guide to finding the best second-hand treasures in Kerikeri Secondhand Shops. Together with the road trip route above, it makes for a brilliant, full few days of travel without ever needing to stray too far from this lovely Far North hub.

Video Highlights

Final Thoughts

Kerikeri turned out to be the ultimate base camp for a few days in Northland. It is central enough to reach either coast with ease, yet filled with plenty to enjoy right on its own doorstep. From the sensory buzz of market mornings to a cliffside memorial that asks you to slow down and reflect, to a historic fish shop over the water and a perfect summer ice cream, this stretch of the road trip was a proper introduction to everything the Far North does best.

Next up, I headed further into the Bay of Islands itself, including an unforgettable boat trip out to the famous Hole in the Rock. That story is coming to the blog very soon!

What’s your favourite spot in the far north? What other places should I visit next time.

Happy traveling, Jenny – follow me on Insta or Youtube

(video/images taken at time of visit may not be current)