Explore these Amazing Northland Walks and more

The upper North Island of New Zealand, is well worth making time for. And if you’re after some of the best Northland walks, you won’t be disappointed. It’s a unique part of the country, covering nearly 13,000 square kilometres, and holds enormous cultural significance. From the landings of explorers Kupe and Toitehuatahi to the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, this region is rich in history.

There is so much to see, however not to be missed are some fantastic Northland walks and hikes that cater to all abilities. From walking amongst giant kauri trees at Puketi Forest, boulders at Wairere nature reserve and for those after something a bit more strenuous there is Mt Manaia. Not to be missed is Smugglers bay which has two options to get there, the short track or the long track. Make sure to check out the videos below showing the highlights of the Northland Walks.

The Giants of Puketi Forest

Located approximately a 21-minute drive inland from Kerikeri, Puketi Forest is an ancient Kauri forest.  There are a number of tracks woven within the forest to suit different fitness levels, making it a highly accessible stop. On my visit, I completed the Puketi Nature Trail, which is a 1.6 km loop and takes about an hour of gentle walking. The track winds through native bush and leads to a spectacular lookout over the forest canopy. Along the way, if you keep your ears open, you might spot or hear rare native birds, including the Kōkako, Toutouwai (North Island Robin), and the elusive North Island Brown Kiwi.

 

Just a short drive down the road within the same reserve is the Manginangina Kauri Walk. This is a short, 15-minute boardwalk that is fully wheelchair accessible, meaning anyone can experience the magic of these trees. Standing on the wooden platform looking up at the giant Kauri trees, which reach up to 50 metres tall, is an awe inspiring experience.

Quick Tips for Puketi Forest and Manginangina Kauri Walk

• Drive Time: Located a 21-minute drive inland from Kerikeri.
• Track Lengths: Puketi Nature Trail is a 1.6 km loop taking 1 hour. Manginangina Kauri Walk is a short 15-minute boardwalk.
• Accessibility: The Manginangina Kauri Walk is fully wheelchair accessible.
• Wildlife: Listen out for rare native birds including the Kokako, North Island Robin, and North Island Brown Kiwi.
• Rules: Dogs are not allowed in the reserve to protect native wildlife.

 

Wairere Boulders Nature Reserve

Located approximately 46 minutes from Kerikeri, the Wairere Boulders Nature Reserve makes for a truly unique day trip, though they do have excellent campsites available if you would like to stay longer. This privately owned sanctuary features a variety of walking and hiking tracks that take you directly amongst, through, and even over an enormous accumulation of eroded basalt boulders. If you are into bouldering, they cater for that too.

Walking through a valley filled with massive rocks that are significantly bigger than yourself is quite the otherworldly experience. There are some tight squeezes and wooden ladders along the way, but navigating the trail is absolutely worth the effort. All of the walks start from the main information hut. Entry is $15, which is a fantastic value as it also covers bouldering access for a full 24-hour period. The geological patterns and lines worn into the stone over millions of years are a visual playground.

 

 

Quick Tips for Wairere Boulders Nature Reserve

• Drive Time: Located a 46-minute drive from Kerikeri.
• Entry Fee: Access is 15 dollars per person, which covers the walking tracks and bouldering for a full 24-hour period.
• Activities: Features bush walks, hiking tracks, bouldering areas, and on-site campsites.
• Trail Conditions: The tracks require navigating tight spaces, rocky paths, and wooden ladders.
• Facilities: All walks begin at the main information hut where basic amenities are available.

 

Mount Manaia Track

Moving further south towards Whangārei Heads, the landscape shifts dramatically into jagged, volcanic peaks. The Mount Manaia Track is an absolute must-do for anyone wanting a classic New Zealand summit experience. The 4 km return track winds steadily upwards through a beautiful native forest of Nikau Palms, Kauri, Northern Rātā, and Pohutukawa.

This practically 2 km of uphill climb so you should expect plenty of stairs on this climb. It is a heart-pumping workout, but the reward of the views at the summit, which sits 420 metres above sea level, makes you forget every single step. The view offers sweeping, panoramic views right across the entrance of the Whangārei Harbour, Te Whara/Bream Head, and out to the dramatic silhouettes of the Taranga and Marotere Islands (popularly known as the Hen and Chicken Islands).

Quick Tips for the Mount Manaia Track

• Physical Location: Located at Whangarei Heads, south of Kerikeri.
• Distance and Time: A 4 km return walk taking approximately 2 hours.
• Difficulty Level: Rated as hard due to a steady, 2 km uphill climb with a high number of stairs.
• Summit Elevation: Reaches 420 metres above sea level, offering panoramic views of Whangarei Harbour and the Hen and Chicken Islands.
• Packing Advice: Wear sturdy footwear, carry plenty of water, and pack warm layers for the exposed summit platforms.

 

Smugglers Bay Loop Track

Also located out at Whangārei Heads, is the Smugglers Bay Loop Track which starts from the Bream Head Scenic Reserve car park at Urquharts Bay. While you can take a direct path straight over the hill to Smugglers Bay in around 15 minutes, taking the time to complete the full loop is so worth it. The loop is approximately 3 km and takes around 1.5 hours.

 

Sir Edmund Hillary Memorial

This track blends natural coastal beauty with a lot of fascinating history. At the beginning of the track you will pass the Sir Edmund Hillary memorial which honours him as the founding patron of the Bream Head Conservation Trust Make sure to keep an eye out as you might miss the memorial, as there is no statue to see rather a bench overlooking the bay.

 

Gun Emplacements

If you do the loop track, as you pass through farmland you will come across some concrete gun emplacements at Home Point, which were built during World War II to protect the harbour. These were secretly constructed disguised as a farmhouse and a rocky outcrop.

 

Continuing on from Home Point, after about 1.7 km you will reach a fork where you can take a short detour up Busby Head. The detour is well worth it for the elevated ocean views, though the track gets a little narrow and rugged towards the top, so I chose to turn back just before the absolute summit.

 

Maori History

While I didn’t see it myself from home point to Smugglers bay there is evidence of Maori having lived in the area, including a pa, food storage pits and more.

From the fork, the track continues down to Smugglers Bay itself. There were a few other people around when I arrived, but the beach felt incredibly peaceful all the same. Sitting on the pristine white sand, watching the clear water lap at the shore of the bay, was the perfect spot to sit and soak it all in before heading back to the car.

What’s in a name

During the 19th century locals usined the beach to stash their alcohol to avoid paying customs duties, hence the name Smugglers Bay.

 

Quick Tips for the Smugglers Bay Loop Track

• Trailhead Location: Starts at the Bream Head Scenic Reserve car park at Urquharts Bay, Whangarei Heads.
• Distance and Time: The full loop is 3 km and takes about 1.5 hours. A direct path over the hill to the beach takes 15 minutes.
• Historical Highlights: Features a beachside bench honoring Sir Edmund Hillary, World War II concrete gun placements at Home Point, and local Maori history sites.
• Side Detour: At 1.7 km into the trail a fork leads up Busby Head for elevated ocean views along a narrow, rugged track.
• Amenities: There are public toilets located near the main car park, but no facilities on the actual beach.

 

Northland Walks Video Highlights

 

 

Final Word on Northland Walks

Whether you are a keen, experienced hiker looking for a summit challenge or simply want to wander at your own slow pace beneath a cool forest canopy, these Northland walks offers something for every kind of traveler. From towering ancient kauri trees and massive hidden boulders to wartime history and dramatic coastal views, every single track reveals another fascinating side of this remarkable region. So if Northland isn’t already on your travel radar, it is time to change that.

For other things to do in the northland region there is the Bay of Islands which includes a trip to the hole in the rock or a road trip from Kerikeri to Mangonui and so much more including opshopping and waterfalls.

If you have done any of these walks let me know or if you have found others in the area I’d love to know.

Happy traveling, Jenny – follow me on Insta or Youtube

(video/images were taken at time of visit may not be current)